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  1. #1
    Administrator Brian's Avatar
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    Morton Buildings

    I am looking at all my options for the 40 x 60 barn I am thinking of building. I have scaled it back in size and in what I wanted it to be due to the crazy cost. I have a post card from Morton Buildings and I am thinking of sending it back for more info. Anyone have any experience with them?

    I still think it would be best to have a block foundation and 2x6 walls over a pole structure, but?

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  3. #2
    Administrator tugnut1's Avatar
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    Never scale back.

  4. #3
    Senior Member Kennyd's Avatar
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    I learned a lot when I had my pole barn built...Morton is just a brand name that has become synonymous with pole barns like Kleenex is to tissue-and they charge for it. There are a ton of builders out here that do pole barns using much the same materials as Morton as well. Is there a Amish/Menenite presence there in MI?

    I say draw yourself some simple/basic plans, shop them around and check references.

    Building a stick-built building will double the cost, I personally could not justify that for a storage building.

    Here are the plans I drew for mine:
    Morton Buildings-pole-barn-plan.jpg Morton Buildings-pole-barn-elevation-1.jpg
    Last edited by dieselshadow; 07-29-2012 at 08:23 AM.

  5. #4
    Administrator Brian's Avatar
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    Thanks Kenny, I plan to start to compare prices. The 40 x 80 with the 1.5 truck garage with wash bay came back at 98,000. Thats some serious coin and there was a goof amount spent in the car wash area that really is not needed. So with that backed out and removed, I dropped to 40x60 and the price is down in the 50K area with 2 garage doors and one entry. This is with 14 foot walls.

    Those prices are stick built and not solid. I need to get some layout done before we go for a full 100 percent solid bid.

  6. #5
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    As you probably know, I've been shopping & kicking tires for a while now...Morton shop right here in town so I got a quote from em and as Kenny said, way high for a pole building. Priced out a "local" builder of pole barns and they were a little less then the Morton but still high for a pole building IMO. I could have gotten them cheaper but in that quote they had speced out extras such as Book Shelf girts, 4' OC trusses, etc.
    because I had expressed the desired to eventually finish the interior down the road...
    For me and what I wanted...in the current economy and all things considered, Conventional stick was the way to go. I honestly cant say doing a pole would have been cheaper.

  7. #6
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    Since you are so close to a "standard" size, why not go to 40 X 64 X 14? Probably the most-common-built size pole building there is (except probably 40x64x12). No matter who you talk to, they've built many of these, and have the material list still laying there from last time. Also, the 40x64x12 is quite often one of the sizes they will list in the newspaper when they have a "sale".
    8 x 5 = 40, 8 x 8 = 64, etc....

  8. #7
    Administrator Brian's Avatar
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    Good advise Jim. I picked the size after my initial plan was out of my price range. Still hoping a stick built is possible, but if not a member here turned me on to perma columns... http://www.permacolumn.com/

    So not sure what way to go right now. So much depends on the driveway and I am working on planning that out now.

  9. #8
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    Yea, its good to consider everything you can think of before choosing a building method. In my case, I knew I wanted radiant floor heat, energy efficiency, door thresholds that did not move due to frost, and lowest possible cost. Then I found out from the County that "pole buildings" are tax valued at $9.50 per square foot, and stick built "garages" are taxed at $23 per square foot. So of course it had to be a pole building.
    Perma-column brand also has these brackets they call "Sturdi-wall" http://www.permacolumn.com/Sturdi-Wall_c_2.html
    Using these allowed me to build a pole building of poles and pole steel siding and roofing (satisfying the tax man), and yet have a unified building/slab, not a floating slab situation with its non-dependable door thresholds. Additionally I chose to use bookshelf construction methods, so the same girts were available to the outside for siding application, and available to the inside for finish sheeting, and then the resulting cavities were 24 inches on center, horizontal of course, and correct to accept a standard fiberglass batt.

  10. #9
    Administrator Brian's Avatar
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    With all this info and some thoughts on space use, I am now thinking of building an L shaped building. I have not priced it yet, but I think the decreased truss span by going narrower will help out. It will also allow for greater accessibility to some things due to more doors and places to store items.

    This also allows me to possibly make a wash bay in one of the L's. Huge bonus.

  11. #10
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    Have you looked at a Kodiak building?. Red iron, metal roof & siding, can be diy or have contractor help. www.kodiaksteelhomes.com/ There are stand alone garage/outbuilding plans there also.


 
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